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*Question & Answer*

Interior Paint

Painting Over Stains:

Dear Bob

I have a stain on the ceiling of my dining room that looks like it came from as plumbing leak but there isn't any plumbing anywhere close to where the stain is. How can I paint over the stain and be sure that it will not reappear?

Dear LP

Your first step should be to find the source of the stain. The color of the stain will give you a clue to what is causing the problem.
Dark brown or black stains are usually caused by a roof leak or a leaking iron pipe. The water can flow along the studs and penetrate the ceiling at a nail or low point. Check your attic for any stains if you have access to the area.

Light brown stains on walls or ceilings are caused by excessive interior humidity. Moisture vapor condenses on these surfaces and leaches stain causing solids out of latex paint. Bathroom vent fans will cure this problem.

Bluish green stains are caused by leaky copper pipes or condensation. A plumbing leak maybe caused by chemically aggressive water. Have your water tested and consult a plumber.
To hide the stain; clean the ceiling with a household cleaner and apply two coats of a shellac based primer and two coats of matching ceiling paint.

Storing Paint:

Dear Bob

I am using an oil based primer in my house. What can I do to prevent a skin from forming on the paint after the can has been closed?

Dear Bill

The first thing to do is clean out all primer remaining in the groove or "chime" of the container. Make sure that the rim of the lid is clean, too.

Then, do one or the other:

Press the lid on and make sure it is presses into place thoroughly. The smallest hole will allow air to enter and leave with changes in the air pressure, and thus foster skin formation. Then store the container upside down.

Or place a circular piece of clear plastic wrap carefully on the primer in the container, then press the lid on tightly, and store the container upright.



Painting Over Formica:

Dear Bob

The previous owner put formica panels on the walls of our kitchen. Is there a way to paint over formica so we do not have to remove it from the walls?

Dear GL

Yes, you should be able to paint the Formica successfully. First, clean and rinse the surface. This is important because airborne cooking oils collect on kitchen surfaces over time. Then sand it well, using fine (#220) grit sandpaper; then clean off with a damp rag or sponge. Wear eye protection and a dust mask.

Then apply a high adhesion alcohol-based (shellac-based) stain blocking primer.) Use ample ventilation, with two windows open in the room. Follow package directions for best method of application. Allow it to dry over night.

Apply a top of the line interior latex eggshell or satin enamel; or a latex Kitchen & Bath paint in a satin or semigloss finish. Use a 3/8" nap top quality synthetic roller cover, or use a 3" foam brush. A second coat will probably be needed.

I do not recommend painting countertops. The demands of standing liquids, food contact, cutting, cleaning, abrasion, hot pans, etc. are too great.

Painting a door:

Dear Bob

How can I keep from getting brush marks when I apply a latex paint to a paneled door?

Dear JAB

The best way to paint a door is to remove it and set it up on a pair of sawhorses. If you will be doing both sides of the door, you can support it by driving two 3" drywall nails part way into the top and bottom edges of the door, and then support the door on the nails, at least when doing the second side. Remove hardware (including hinges from the door if you have taken the door down; when doing this, mask the mortises to keep paint out of them).
Lightly sand the door to scuff up the surface. If the door is new a coat of primer should be applied.

First, paint the panels one at a time: do the beveled parts, then the flat parts; use a rag to remove any paint that gets onto rails or stiles of the door. Next, do the rails and stiles: With long even strokes, you can keep multiple wet-edges: going from top to bottom of the door, do the top rail all the way across, then immediately start all (2 or 3) stiles and paint down the door doing all the stiles at one time; you must work quickly; when you get to a rail, do it all the way across, then continue down the door, keeping a wet edge on all the stiles; and so on. Then do the other side if both sides are to be painted. Finally, paint the edges.

When the first coat has dried lightly sand the surface and repeat the above procedure.

Painting Straight lines:

Dear Bob

I'm having a very difficult time getting nice straight paint lines where the walls meet the ceiling and where the trim meets the wall. Just can't seem to get straight lines even with one of the 15" edging tools. Are there any "inside tips" that would help?

Answer


You might want to try using masking tape or "painters tape" to mask off one area while applying the paint to the neighboring area, to get a straight line.




Be sure to apply the tape carefully, and press it down thoroughly. Masking tape should be removed promptly once the paint has dried, or it may be difficult to remove, and stick too much and pull up the paint underneath. Painters tape is more forgiving in this regard, and can be left on longer, at least for a day. Painter's tape is available at paint stores, home centers and hardware stores.

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