Encyclopedia

of Home Improvements

*Granite Care*

Granite Care & Maintenance

Granites are the densest of the natural stones. Typically polished but also available in honed, or flamed and other finishes. "Hard" to "very hard" as natural stone goes and therefore suitable for use both commercially and residentially in very high use areas (few exceptions). Commonly used residentially on kitchen and Bathroom counter applications.

In order to maintain the surface and keep it looking fresh and natural, we recommend the following procedures:

1. All stone products require a resealing at least once a year. Since your top has already been sealed at the factory. You will need to schedule your top for resealing accordingly.

2. Before applying the sealer, the exposed areas should be completely clean and dry. Follow the instructions on the sealer container. Granite sealer is available at your local Home Center or Hardware Store.

3. For routine maintenance and cleaning, a good quality stone cleaner is recommended. The cleaner should be used weekly and more frequently with heavier than usual use or for cleaning of chemicals, such as those commonly found in the bathroom. Be sure to follow the instructions on the container.

4. Liquid spills, such as alcohol, medications, etc should be cleaned up promptly. Some liquids with high-acid content can etch granite surfaces if left for any length of time. Popular products that should be promptly cleaned up are: shaving cream, toothpaste, perfume, cologne, nail polish remover, hair coloring and perm products, shampoo, drain opener, and toilet bowl cleaner.

5. Place protective pads on the bottoms of any heavy objects such as pottery, appliances, or other objects that may scratch the granite surface.

6. Avoid abrasive cleaners or rough cleaning pads. If necessary, a soft buffing pad can be used.

7. Use coasters under drinking glasses to prevent glass rings on the surface. All granite will absorb water but if dried quickly, it shouldn't leave a lasting mark.

8. Do not stand on the granite top to fix overhead lights or other items. Do not place extremely heavy items on the top.

Helpful Hint # 1: Granite is porous and can be stained, but these can be removed. When removing stains, it is important to identify what has caused the stain first. Then be sure to use a product specifically recommended for removing that stain.

Types of Stain that can occur (but not limited to):

o Oil based stains: Grease, tar, cooking oil, and food stains
o Organic Stains: Coffee, tea, fruit, tobacco, cosmetics etc.
o Metal stains: Iron (rust), copper, bronze, etc.
o Biological stains: Algae, mildew, lichens, etc
o Ink stains: Magic, marker, pen, ink, etc.

Helpful Hint #2: Any spill should be cleaned as soon as possible. Blot spills with a paper towel or clean rag. Wiping a spill may spread the stain. If the stain remains you can remove it by literally pulling the stain out of the stone with both a chemical and material that will absorb the stain. This combination is what is called a poultice. Poultices are commonly powder or cloth materials that can be mixed with a chemical and placed on top of the stain to draw it out. Many homeowners have the tools to remove stains right in their home.

Some common poultice materials include but not limited to: paper towels, cotton balls, gauze pads, flour, clays, chalk and Diatomaceous Earth.

How to apply a poultice?

o Pre-wet the stained area with a little distilled water. This fills the pores of the stone with water isolating the stain and accelerating the removal by chemical;

o Refer to the chart below and determine which chemical to use for the stain;

o If a powder is to be used, premix powder and the chemical of choice into a thick paste, the consistency of peanut butter;

o If a paper poultice is to be used, soak the paper in the chemical. Lift the paper out until it stops dripping;

o Apply the poultice to the stained area approximately ¼" thick and overlapping the stain by about 1". Do not make the application too thick, or it will take too long to dry;

o Cover the poultice with a plastic sandwich bag or food wrap. Tape the plastic using a low-contact tape. It helps to poke several small holes in the plastic to help poultice dry;

o Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly. This is a very important step. The drying is what pulls the stain out. Allow to dry for 24 to 48 hours;

o Once it has dried, remove the poultice by scrapping and rinse with distilled water and buff dry with soft cloth;

o Examine the stain. If it still remains, but is lighter, re-poultice until it is gone. It may take up to five applications for difficult stains. If the stain refuses to disappear completely, it is time to call a stone specialist.

o Stain removal can be very difficult, and care must be taken when using a poultice.

If the stain is Poultice with

o Rust-Iron out
o Coffee & Tea-Hydrogen Peroxide
o Ink, magic marker-Methylene Chloride
o Oil-Ammonia or a degreaser
o Paint-Mineral spirits

Sealing Granite and Natural Stone With Penetrating Sealers
Sealing granite and natural stone with penetrating sealers, (also called impregnators), protects the structure of a natural stone. They protect the Sealers & Enhancersstone from within. When sealing natural stone or granite with this type of sealer, it is applied directly to the face of the stone with a soft cloth. It's simple to do and does not require a stone specialist. This type of sealer is recommended for sealing granite.

The sealer will penetrate below the stone's surface without leaving a coating or film on top. The stone below the surface will be protected, however, there is no surface protection. This means calcareous natural stones such as marble, onyx, limestone, and travertine can still etch or dull if acidic products such as orange juice or coke are left on your stone.

To help provide surface protection, a natural vegetable soap cleanser or a cleanser made specifically for natural stone should be used. These cleansers build up a thin film layer between periodic deep cleanings. Natural vegetable soaps and stone cleaners remove dirt and debris from the stone's surface the same as a detergent soap does. They are just milder.

Penetrating sealers are either solvent based or water based.

Solvent based penetrating sealers have a higher durability because they are able to penetrate deeper within the stone. Water based, on the other hand, cannot penetrate any deeper into the stone than it will absorb.

In the denser stones, a water based sealer will not penetrate as deeply and leave the protection just below the surface. This means there is less protection of the stone over longer periods of time.

Stones with a high rate of absorption will take the protective sealers deeper into the stone. A water based penetrating sealer works well with very porous natural stones.

The most common protection materials used in penetrating sealers are silicone, siloxane, and fluoropolymers. These materials are unaffected by outside elements and only damaged by temperature ranges of 900F to 1200F or exposure to strong caustic solutions.

Sealers with silicone, silane, and siloxane work well to repel water born stains. This type of impregnator will repel water based liquids such as coffee and tea.

Fluoropolymers are generally water based sealers and have oil repellent characteristics. They will repel oil based liquids such as grease and cooking oil.

If you are sealing granite or natural stone kitchen counters, look for an oil repellant impregnator. An oil resistant impregnator will only slow the absorption of oil while an oil repellant impregnator will keep the oil from entering the stone.

All of them work well to protect stone. Some repel water better and others oil.

Advantages:
The sealer penetrates into the stone and attaches it's protection to the stone walls within the pore structure. This allows the stone to breathe.

Does not alter the color or sheen of the stone.

Does not need to be reapplied after each cleaning.

The sealer is not on the surface so the coating won't scratch or scuff.

A penetrating sealer does not need to be reapplied as often as a topical sealer because there is no surface coating to wear off.

Disadvantages:
Penetrating sealers do not protect the surface of the stone from scratching or etching.

Most granite countertops do not need to be sealed. Before 1995 there were very few quality penetrating sealers on the market and there were very few cases of staining. Both prior to and after the availability of penetrating sealers, no cases of food poisoning, radon, or food preparation issues associated with treated or untreated granites have been reported. If a homeowner cleans their countertops after each meal, they will rarely, if ever, have staining or cleanability issues with granite. This being said, many granite countertops receive additional benefit from being sealed. That benefit is the further reduction of moisture migration into an already moisture resistant surface.

Should natural stone counters be sealed? In many cases it makes sense to seal marble and granite countertops with a quality sealer. The product should have a life expectancy of ten to fifteen years and be of an oliophobic (resistant to water and oil based stains) nature. Once properly sealed, the stone will be more resistant against everyday dirt and spills.

Go to Glossary of Stone Terms

Back to Topics Page

Contact