Encyclopedia

of Home Improvements

*Fasteners*

There are literally hundreds of different fastening options for you to choose from for each and every project. These are just a few of the most common used for everyday needs.

A little trivia- While visiting the Virginia home of Thomas Jefferson - Monticello - the guides informed me that of all of Jefferson's ingenious endeavors (architect, statesman, wine maker, tobacco farmer, etc.) the only thing he made money with was his foundry. He made nails for the colonies! Nails then were more like what we would call spikes! They were so scarce that when a family was going to move, they would burn down their house so they could use the nails on their next house!

Nailing

Select the proper nails for the job at hand. The longer and thicker the nail that you can use, the better it will hold. A headed nail will hold better than finish nail.

You practice on scrap pieces of wood. Hold the nail in place with your fingers and tap it until it can stand by itself. Remove your hand and proceed to hit with your hammer until it is as far as it will go.

For finish nails, use the same method only don't hammer it all the way in. With the nail head just above the material use a nail set on the head of the nail and drive it just below the surface of the wood. Fill with wood filler, let it dry, sand it and then apply your finish.

For more delicate nailing (small pieces of wood or the end of boards pre drill holes slightly smaller than your finish nail, Fill it, sand it, and finish it off.

Screwing

The key to setting a screw correctly is to drive the screw straight. A good way to start a screw is to mark the center of the screw hole with an awl. A couple of taps on it and you'll be ready to start your screw. Keep your screwdriver or screw gun straight with the screw and turn the screw. If you start to strip the screw, back it out and use a new one. Adding a little soap to the screw always helps the screw to set easier. Pre drilling is a good idea especially with hardwoods and fastening the end of a board. With pre drilling you still must make sure you drill straight!

When using a screw gun a slow firm pressure works much better than high speed. You will have much more control over the direction of your fastener.

Rivets

Rivets are good for a variety of jobs with metal like aluminum. Drill a hole the size of your rivet, Load the rivet tool with a rivet and insert it into the predrilled hole. Squeeze the rivet tool until the rivet tool is tight.

Removing stubborn screws

Slotted screws full of paint- Scrape old paint out of the slot by chiseling it out with a screwdriver and hammer. For a stripped screw try to hammer the screwdriver or chisel into the screw to make a new slot. Press down hard on the handle of the screwdriver and turn. You may also use a wrench to help you turn the screwdriver.

For Philips head screws, use a hammer to drive your screwdriver into the center of the head so your screwdriver can get a better grip.

Some screws just don't want to come out. Try applying heat to the screw if the situation allows. Hardware stores and home centers sell a screw-removing bit that will thread itself into the screw with the reverse action of a screw gun and extract the screw.

If all else fails, get a drill bit fro metal and drill it out!

Fasteners

Lag screws- galvanized- commonly used for decks, attaching structural members. They come in a variety of sizes and lengths. (Photo 1)

Galvanize roof nails - used for nailing roofing shingles. (Photo 2)

Drywall Toggle bolts - used to attach items such as pictures from drywall. (Photo 3)

Galvanized 10 penny nails - whole purpose, generally used in framing walls and floors. (Photo4)

Galvanize spiral nails - primarily used for nailing wood decking to deck frame. Spiral design helps them to set very tight and stay that way. (Photo 5)

Stainless decking screws - used to the wood and man-made decking materials. Two different threads help this screw to counter sink itself. Come in different colors to match decking. (Photo 6)

Gutter screws - used to attach gutter to facia - recommend that gutter be pre drilled. (Photo 7)

Wood screws - use for many different applications indoors and out. Hold tighter than nails. Galvanized and stainless steel recommended for outdoor use. (Photo 8)

Finish nails - used for trim and finish work - usually set with a nail punch to below wood surface and are filled with putty. Galvanized or stainless recommended for outside use. (Photo 9)

Drywall screws and nails - take your pick - Pros like to nail the seams and screw the field. They both work well; screws help to prevent nail pops in new construction. ( photo 10)
Wire staples - electrician's use these two attach wire to framing members through out the house. (Photo 11)

Expanding screw toggle - for attaching items to drywall just screw them into a wall snug and Attach what you want with the screw. (Photo 12)

Plastic shield/anchors - Drill a hole into the drywall or concrete, insert plastic shield and attach screw into. (Photo 13)

Carriage bolts - use where maximum strength is required, load-bearing beams, decks, railing posts, etc. Drill holes, insert bolts and tighten. Be sure to use washers at both ends. (Photo 14) rivets

Rivets - make a nice the connection particularly with gutters and leaders. Drill a whole the diameter of the plastic end of the rivet. Insert long metal end into the rivet tool. Insert the plastic end into the hole that you drilled in the material secured and squeeze the handle until the rivet is tight. (Photo 15)

Cable staples - When running video cable, especially inside the house, they make a nice neat looking installment. (Photo 16)

Ramset shots and pins- A 22 caliber nail gun to attach material to concrete or steel. For example firing strips to basement walls.

Hurriquake Nail - There are four main features to the hurriquake nail: the head, the shear shank, the body, and the deep ring anchors. The head is 25% larger than conventional nails and is marked for easy code inspection. The shear shank has great sheer strength at a major stress point. The body is made of "improved plastic collation" that allows for easier driving. And the deep ring anchors have tremendous holding power. The net result is a 2x resistance to high winds. It is rated up to 170 mph winds. But this is the hurriquake nail.
It is also built to withstand earthquakes too. In fact, the nail can decrease structural failure in earthquakes by up to 50%. This is where the shear shank does a good job. The perpendicular forces of earthquake acting on the nail usually break it. The hurriquake nail does a better job in that area. This is a smart project because it basically covers the entire US in terms of practicality. You will probably be dealing with high winds or earthquakes. Maybe not all the time, but the cost is pretty minimal for better protection. (Photo17)

Concrete lag bolts - drill appropriate size hole in concrete and insert expanding end into hole. As you tighten the bolt the head expands in the hole until it holds tight. (photo18 )

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